Elagant e Romantica Venezia
**Before we embark on a wistful gondola ride down Venice’s Grand Canal and take in its scenic marvels; a brief historical backdrop might help us better understand the Venice landscape and the people who settled there.
Cittá Della Laguna
Venice is located in the marshy Venetian Lagoon , enclosed by the bay of the Adriatic Sea and sheltered by the Lido (sandbar) and small strips of land; it stretches for more than 200 miles between the mouths of the Po and Piave rivers in Northeastern Italy. (1)
Groups of settlers known as the Veneti people began to inhabit the lagoon as a refuge from Rome’s downfall and its marauding hordes of Germanic and Hun invaders. The solidarity of the lagoon and its marshy geography not only propagated safety for its new inhabitants, but opened the door to a lucrative trade route on the Adriatic Sea. The traditional founding date is believed to be around AD 424 when it’s first church, San Giacomo, was erected, but not until the 10th century did the city of Venice make a significant presence. (1)
By the 13th century Venice had grown to become the most prosperous city in Europe¹ due to its idyllic location, number of sea worthy ships and abundance of able-bodied sailors suitable for trade and exploration within the Byzantine Empire and Muslim world. So vast the number of ship builders available during its glory days that a ship could be fitted every 24 hours. (4)
Venice soon developed into a Republic and became the major maritime power of the Middle Ages (and source of the “Marco Polo” trade routes). It was essential to the Renaissance period of exploration and the arts while the pivotal platform for the crusades. It has been said that in its prime, the Venetian Republic had a population of over 200,000 (more than current day) and was unequal in its scope an influence. (1)
However, this Romanesque power building of a wealthy republic was soon challenged by the horrific outbreak of the Bubonic Plague in 1630. The plague first broke out in China from 1271-1295, killing approximately 2/3 of its population. By 1348 it reached the shores of Europe from rats, infected by diseased fleas, that jumped off the merchant ships once anchored in port or carried off in the bags or crates of treasured spices transported from Asia.(1)
It was estimated that 1/3 of the populace in southern Europe were killed at this time. It was not until 1630 that a second wave of the Bubonic Plague decimated Venice where over 80,000 lost their lives within 17 months. The horrendous and genocidal numbers of dead souls and the frustration it evoked, began to crack and weaken the Republic’s resolve. Eventually it surrendered its sovereignty to Napoleon in 1797, ending over 1010 years of self-rule.(1)
Carnivale
Each year at Carnivale, visitors and locals alike don extravagant costumes and masks during its joyous and decadent celebration prior to the religious observance of lent. The event originated in the early years of the Renaissance era where even the nobility could hob knob and party with the common folk and not be recognized. This traditional celebration is held each year with Venetians and visitors from around the world taking part. Masks can be molded to your face and are considered works of art. Carnivale is often taunted as no cheap thrill. The amount of money required to attend in style is insane but to those that participate, it’s worth the ticket price. (1)
One mask in particular, represents the “Doctor”, that brave soul who tried valiantly to help his fellow-man stricken with the plague. The doctor’s mask was designed to protect him from contracting the disease, and to ease the smell of death, by holding an inhalant of vinegar and herbs in its beak-like aperture. Alas, it did ward off the smell, somewhat, but not the disease.
Modern Day
Today the Region of Veneto, specifically Venice, continues its tradition as one of Italy’s most lucrative havens. In fact, Venice has frequently been anointed as the most beautiful city in the world and one of the most revered vacation spots on planet earth. It stands proud and powerful, flush with priceless and awe-inspiring antiquities, romantic edifices and Italian charm.
Interesting enough, this ancient city, stands among 118 small islands separated only by canals and connected by 400 bridges. There are virtually no cars, buses or polluting road vehicles to spoil the hypnotic sounds of the city: its never-ending source of water; churning and splashing from dozens of small boats, gondola’s and water taxi’s dotting the canals, the enchanting arias wafting from the Gondoliers; or the gentle lapping of waves on its buildings. In addition, the eerie absence of road and air noise seems to enhance the excitable voices and racing hearts of its visitors, anticipating the grand spectacles of St. Mark’s square; the enchanting gardens, art boutiques and displays of the Italian masters; the magnificent opera houses (Venice built the first opera house in 1637), and the abundance of delicious wines pared with the aromatic and palatable joy of Italian cuisine! Love is in the air. La vita é buona!
Let the Adventure Begin**
Traveling from the Venetian airport, Marco Polo, to our hotel destination, the Canal Grand Hotel, is as simple as riding in a water taxi. Oh my gosh, this is different: no cars, no roads to be found, only water ways. When we arrive at the hotel, the comfort of design and service is impressive. The Canal Grand Hotel is a gorgeous 4-star private boutique with 17 rooms. It’s just around the corner from the Church of San Simeon Piccolo founded in 967 and currently hosts the popular Tintoretto’s “Last Super” masterpiece. The hotel also has an idyllic location on the canal boasting ease of connection to all the monuments, and the main reason for my choice of accommodation.
After settling down in our rooms and dressing for the day, we head for the hotel’s dock. Here we will be ushered into a private gondola driven by a gondolier. We shall call our gondolier, Antonio, dressed in the traditional costume of a blue and white striped shirt, woven straw hat with colored band at brim , scarf and waist band to match.
Once aboard, Antonio gently traverses the canal and begins our leisurely journey to awesome. After a few minutes of conversation he begins to sing the dreamy and chilling Italian melodies of love so traditional on the waterways of Venice’s Grand Canal.
The Four Bridges
Within thirty minutes of leaving the hotel and marveling at the bridges, we reached our day’s destination, disembarked from the gondola, let Antonio know when to return for us and became a bit giddy from the thrill of it all.
The following informational gems and stunning videos depict a few of the glorious sights we will see at St Mark’s Square. (Please pursue with fun and history in mind. Hopefully, your interest will be piqued enough to reserve a Venetian vacation of your own.) Non ve ne pentirete!
St. Mark (patron saint of Venice) and The Lion of Venice (symbol of Venice)
St Mark’s Square: St. Mark’s Basilica, the Bell Tower, The Watch Tower and Doge’s Palace
St. Mark’s Basilica
It is hard to describe the beauty, historical significance and unbelievable monument that is St. Mark’s Basilica on the square. This expansive church’s primary function was to keep safe the artifacts and memory of St. Mark the Evangelist, the patron saint of Venice, and to memorialize them in a shrine inimitable to this day.
In 828 Venetian merchants stole the relics of St. Mark (some argue that the bones were really those of Alexander the Great) from their resting place in Alexandria, Egypt. They smuggled them undetected beneath layers of barreled pork to get past the Muslim Guards, under discrete orders and funding from the cunning, Doge Guistiniano Participazio, and return them back to Venice. Instead of displaying them, the Doge immediately hid St. Mark’s relics in his palace. (1)(2)(4)
Years later, in his will, Guistiniano instructed his wife to honor St. Mark’s relics by constructing a basilica in his name. And so it was done, magnificently. (In medieval times claiming ownership to the bones of a saint was the highest honor given a city and a lucrative source of revenue.) (1)(2)
The intrigue behind the theft of St. Mark’s relics, and many other stories in Venetian history, are painted on the Basilica walls, floors and cupolas. The perfection and detail of its awe-inspiring art, whether in mosaic tiles, paintings, statues or byzantine style architecture and design; depicts a breathtaking glimpse of history in conflict and opulence centered around the influence of Christendom in Italy and the bounties from the Crusades. (1)
St Mark’s Basilica is the most exquisite example of Byzantine architecture and design in the world. The pictures below exemplify the grandeur of its body and the spiritually enhanced triumphs by artists and craftsman of the day. (1)(2)(3)
Guilded Mosaics
The Bell Tower, The Watch Tower and The Doge’s Palace
The Palazzo Ducale was the home to the doges of Venice and the nerve center of the entire Venetian empire. The Palace was treated like the icon it became, and decorated by the greatest Venetian artists; money and prestige, its foundation. Since the doge was the figure-head of the Republic and elected for life he, like the kings of past, held court to the world in his palace. It had to be palatial and befitting to his station and Renaissance Venice. (1)(2)(4)
The Palazzo was built-in Venetian Gothic style and is the greatest and most ostentatious example of it in the world, remaining true to the original design, no matter how many times it burned or was ransacked. Not only did the Palace house the Doge’s apartments ad meeting rooms of the government and city courtrooms but also its jail. It wasn’t until the 15th century when a new prison was built outside of the palace. The Bridge of Sighs in the 17th century was built to connect once again the prison to the Palace. The empty space vacated by the original jail was quickly converted into a picturesque courtyard. (1)(5)
However, by the end of the 19th century The Doge’s Palace had fallen into such disrepair that the government offices were moved to another location and the palace was totally refurbished into the breath-taking museum it is today. (1)(2)
After eight hours of non-stop sight-seeing, it’s time for some relaxation and sustenance at the Antochi Caramane, a popular Italian Restaurant near the Rialto Bridge. It’s been a wonderful day; one that dreams are made of.
**I have not actually been to Venice, but have studied, planned and sought out expert advice, exclusively for my trip to Venice and Switzerland next summer. I first fell in love with the idea of going to Venice when I visited Rome many years ago, but after reading Don Brown’s book, Inferno, it became a passion . Fortunately, now that my husband and I are “officially retired”, we can afford the time and financial sacrifice needed to embrace the most beautiful city in the world, my Precious Jewel of the Lagoon. We’ll also being visiting Switzerland; the Martig’s ancestral play ground and the subject of my next post.
***All pictures are from Google Images. All videos are from YouTube.
(1)http://https://www.wikipedia.org/
(2)Jonathan Buckley, Pocket Rough Guide: Venice, (e-book edition)
(3) Tom Brown, Inferno, (e-book edition), 380-397
(4)www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g187870-Venice_Venet..
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